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European Youth Cup, Imst

By Freja Duncan 2014.06.17 in Competition

 

During the last weekend in May, I joined 6 other talented climbers from Sweden as we headed towards Imst, Austria for the first EYC of the year.

On Friday morning we walked down to the climbing hall. Standing there in a small village surrounded by beautiful mountains and facing one of the most amazing climbing walls in the world, 1.312 m²  the only thing I wanted to do was climb, but I had to wait until the following day. Luckily they have an indoor climbing hall were we spent the rest of the day climbing easy routes to get ready for the competition.

The competition wall!

The competition wall!

Competition clothes

Competition clothes

 

Eventually the day of the EYC arrived…. the day I had waited so long for. We got up early, had breakfast and left for the climbing hall. I went out as second to last out of  49 competitors so I started my warm up later during the day.

The first route was a vertical, technical and crimpy route in the beginning, but more overhanging and more powerful moves in the end. The route didn’t have any reachy moves and it looked like it could fit me quite well even though I don´t like climbing vertical walls that much! In the beginning of the route I was really, really nervous but the further I got the less nervous I became. I fell after about 2/3 but I think I could have done better!

Route 1

Route 1

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The second route was much more overhanging than the first with more slopers and a few open crimps. The route looked like it could suit me, and it did, I fell only a couple of clips from the top.  I finished 29th out of 49, and over all I am happy with my first international competition.

Route 2

Route 2

I ended the day with some speed practise, as we don’t have a speed wall in Sweden!

Speed!

Speed!

 

I learnt a lot and had a lot of fun!

"Team Sweden"

“Team Sweden”

Swedish Youth Championships

By Freja Duncan 2014.05.13 in Uncategorized

This Saturday was the Swedish youth championships in Gothenburg. Friday after school my family and I left for Gothenburg, we arrived late friday evening.

We had a early start Saturday morning, in order to have time to warm up and get ready for the competition. The competition hade 73 registered competitors from 16 different clubs, even tough it was the swedish championships people from Denmark, Norway  and Austria also participated.

Both qualifying routes were great fun even tough they were a little bit to easy to find the max capability of each climber. The 1:st route was the easiest and everybody in my group topped (youth B). The second route was slightly harder and me and 3 others topped. All together we were 2 swedes, one dane and one norwegian that had toped both qualification routes.

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Freja Duncan-7

The final looked harder, but I was afrade that it would be to easy. We were told that if more than one climber topped they would look at the qualification results and if they were the same the time in the finals would count. After a long wait in the isolation, probably around 3h, it was my time to climb. I was nervous, but to concentrated on the route for it to effect my climbing. I was working on the fact that some one had topped the route, so I knew that i had to climb fast to win. Speed climbing has never been my thing but I really wanted to win. I tried to climb afficenly without geting pump. The route was really fun! I managed to top the route and was really happy when I came down, until I found out that one of the other Swedish climbers had topped the route faster than me, so I Finnish in a 2:nd place. Even tough I really would have liked to win a was quite happy with my 2:nd place, because it made me motivated to become even better and comeback next year, with even more experience and win the Swedish championships.

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I had a lovely weekend with all my lovely friends!

On the sunday Nicki asked the National Team to come and train att “Klätter Labbet” during the morning. It was a really fun training but I only stayed for half of it as i hade promised my little brother to go to Liseberg (a big amusement park in gothenburg) which also was fun!

 

 

Training camp in Copenhagen

By Freja Duncan 2014.05.12 in Training

Training camp at Blocs and Walls, Copenhagen

Last Wednesday my Dad picked me upp from school to drive me to Slagsta where I was picked upp by Björn, Emil and Ymer. We were going to the national team training camp at blocs and walls in Denmark!

It was 4 long, hard days of climbing. Thursday started with a presentation about exercise Physiology, that Björn held. After the very interesting presentation we  had lead and speed interval training. Climb for 20sec and rest for 20sek until it wasn’t possible anymore. After this we had balance training with Patrik Hagelin (an olympic champion in gymnastics). After the first day we were so sore and tired that it felt impossible to train for 3 more days!

fun

The second day included campus training on different grips and lead/ boulder training. After 2 days of hard climbingI think that everybody needed a rest/building day!

On the 3:rd day the task for the older children was to build 12 routes for the competition between Sweden and Denmark the following day. 6 routes for each country. As I wasn’t allowed to build lead routes together with friends I built a boulder and then left for Copenhagen Boulders.

boulder

Finally sunday came, even tough we were tired, everybody had been looking forward to the competition! We got divided into two groups: girls and boys so we were not divided into age groups. The first route was built by Nea and was probably around 6c/6c+. I was so nervous that I fell on the second move, but Nicki told me that I could restart, and I managed to top it without any trouble.  The second route was probably 6c+/7a. I managed to do it, even tough I got a bit of pump in the end.  The 3:rd route was much harder and was built by some really good Swedish girls. The route had a lot of high feet and reachy moves. I was tired everywhere and my skin hurt so I didn’t get that far. In the end I think that i finished in a 4:th place.

It was a really fun weekend and I met a lot of new friends!

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Silver in the first lead competition this year!

By Freja Duncan 2014.04.12 in Competition

Last Saturday we got up early to leave for Eskilstuna for the first lead competition this year. I was really excited but also a little bit nervous…
The first qualification route was the easiest with lots of jugs. It was a nice warmup route. It was nice to top it out, to calm the nerves down. Only 2 people in my group toped it, me and Nea from Denmark, who i had competed against in Arco last year. I was really excited to see how good she hade become compered to me, because we were equally good then!

The second route was so much harder! The first half of the route was quite easy but then all de hard pinches came together with pump, so i fell of at 23+ points and 2 clips from the top. Me and Nea got the same amount of points on this route as well!

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The third route was the hardest, with a lot of pinches and slopers, I fell of  on a hard gaston from a pinch to a crimp on a box to the right. Nea managed to get one grip thuther  than me, so I knew that I had to come thither than her in the finals!

Me on the third route!

Me on the third route!

JOSSAN, NICCO, YMER, FREJA, NEA AND ELLA

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I knew that i had to do my absolutely best if i wanted to win! The final was a really fun with some hard gaston moves and a variation of grips. I thought that i did well, but I had no idea how the others had climbed. It turned out that Nea came a plus further than me! I had a really fun day with all of my climbing friend!

2014-04-05 Eskilstuna lead cup april 2014 189

After the competition we went for dinner at a friends house, which was really fun!

I´M REALY LOOKING FOWARD TO THE NEXT COMPETITION!

 

About me

I’m Freja, 13 years old, from Nacka, Stockholm and I love climbing. I compete for Stockholm’s Climbing Club and I train hard 4 days a week with my club friends. I climb both boulder and lead and compete in national and international competitions. I am half English, half Swedish.

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